Category: Male clothing > arming garments

Doublet armor

Doublet armor

Century: XV

CODE	Material	Standard ? × SPES products - technology & methods of manufacturing Machine-made standard - products with visible signs of using modern methods and tools in their production; e.g. visible outside and inside seams in clothing made with the use of a machine. Mixed standard - products with visible signs of using both modern and traditional methods and tools in their production; e.g. main, inside seams in clothing are made with the use of a machine while outside stitches and details are sewn by hand. Hand-made standard - goods with visible signs of using only traditional methods and tools in their production; e.g. all seams in clothing are sewn by hand. *NOTE. We always use high quality materials and fabrics while making our products - the above standards of their production are not related to the materials used.	Price
PMLE1475	Linen	Machine-made	228.00 EUR
PMLS0174	Linen	Machine-made	218.00 EUR

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An arming garment for the reenactors of the second half of the 15th century. Doublet armor is slightly shorter but similar in function to a gambeson.

The universal design of our doublet armor makes it appropriate both for light armed fighters and civilians.

Our arming doublet has a waist seam. It has vertical leather straps sewed on its whole length. The edges of this doublet armor are finished in the same way. The clothing is closed with 4 leather laces.

This model of doublet has a high V-shaped collar, typical for the late medieval arming garments.

The stuffing of the doublet armor:
- Y7b on the chest section
- Y7a on the rest of the clothing
You will find more information on the stuffing of arming garments here!

Our doublet armor is available in a full range of colors - you will find them here and 6 sizes:

Size	Chest girth	Waist girth	Hips girth	Height
XS	84-92 cm	72-80 cm	88-96 cm	164-170 cm
S	92-100 cm	80-88 cm	96-104 cm	170-176 cm
M	100-108 cm	88-96 cm	104-112 cm	176-182 cm
L	108-116 cm	96-104 cm	112-120 cm	182-188 cm
XL	116-124 cm	104-112 cm	120-128 cm	188-194 cm
XXL	124-132 cm	112-120 cm	128-136 cm	194-200 cm
Custom	Individual measurements. Price + 20%.

Please write down the chosen size in additional information box when you place the order.

The standard version of this product has standard stitch joining the arm and the shoulder.
Codes: PMLR0175, PMLS0174
For a small charge (+10 EUR) we can equip it with additional puffed sleeves (presented on the pictures).
Codes: PMLR1476, PMLE1475

We can also change the type of closing of this doublet armor. Instead of leather laces, for a small charge (+15 EUR) we can equip it with hand-plaited linen straps. Please let us know about this change before placing an order.

In the standard version, this clothing has leather straps in black color. There are also other colors of straps to choose from:
1. black
2. white
3. beige
4. light brown
5. dark brown
Please let us know about this change before placing an order.
NOTE - the colors of leather may slightly differ from those from the pictures!

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Doublet armor on historical sources

There are various historical sources with arming doublets on the web. However, there are not many of them presenting this clothing with visible stitches in different colors or with straps.
Our doublet armors with straps are based on the oil painting by the Spanish master Sopetrán with the portrayal of Diego Hurtado de Mendoza, the first prince of Infantado. The nobleman is wearing a red doublet with puffy sleeves and black straps on its surface. The work is dated to the second half of the 15th century (1455-70) and you can find it in the Prado Museum.

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Doublet armor - main features:

- much shorter than popular gambesons
- with characteristic seam at the waist
- leather straps on the whole length and edges
- late-medieval clothing
- universal design (for civilian and fighter)
- closed with 4 leather laces
- 6 sizes to choose from
- modifiable

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A doublet - from an under clothing to regular arming garment

A doublet is a tight piece of an outfit worn on a shirt but under other layers of clothing. It was made of both linen and wool. This unique example of men’s wear from its’ beginning was much shorter than gambesons or cottes - it reached the hips. Usually it had long sleeves and it is typical for the fashion of the turn of the medieval and renaissance periods (from the 14th to 17th century).
A doublet had openings for attaching the hose. It could be buttoned up or closed with an overcast lacing method.

In the 15th century the length of doublet was modified and from this moment we can mention a separate model - known commonly as an arming doublet. In comparison with the standard doublet, new kaftans had a role similar to gambeson. Due to their design, they were shorter and lighter than popular aketons.
In this time sleeves were also modified. The characteristic puffed sleeves appeared which, apart from the aesthetic considerations, protected the arms against the press of pauldrons. The collar also grew. In the new form, it became more protective.
In the next years, doublets became narrower and adjacent to the body, underlining the body shape. Slim sleeves and tightened waist made the male profile much more dignified and the chest more prominent.

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The upgrading of SPES gambesons design

Currently, we are working on implementing to our assortment the upgraded versions of our well-known short-sleeved gambesons. Changes include:
- improving the functionality and mobility of our aketons
- thickness of layers (check the chart with levels of amortization)
- directions and shape of stitchings
- minor changes in the cut (for better fitting)
- and most of all, matching the gambesons to our six-levels size set: XS-XXL (NOTE: you can still order a custom-sized gambeson)

Therefore, you can be sure that upgraded SPES gambesons are even better suited to your needs. And if you have any questions about the changes mentioned in any model, contact us and we will dispel any doubts!

To make each gambeson stand out even more, we decided to give them unique names. From now on, Arming doublet (type 1) is called Doublet armor.